Aizu Mishima Basketry & Showa Ramie

Dragon woodcarving at Kokuzoson 

■Aizu Mishima Basketry

Mishima Kogei Kan

Mishima district located in Southwest of Fukushima Prefecture in the north part of Japan. Like other Japanese small towns, in Mishima agriculture is the main industry and has been suffer from  depopulation. But these days town gains sparks back again due to the traditional Basketry products getting popular among middle aged women who reconsider and realize how beautiful Japanese traditional craft works are.

 　   

From left Yama-budo, Matatabi, Hiroro

The materials of Basketry can be found in the mountains locally.  Most popular materials are called Hiroro, Matatabi and Yama-budo.  Hiroro is long wild sedge grass and it's twisted into a cord and then used as a weaving materials. Matatabi is split into thin strips for their use. Bark a Yama-budo vine and the skin is used as a material of Basketry.

Matatabi baskets are mainly used as kitchen products since this material does not absorb water so readily. Hiroro and Yama-budo are mainly used for weaving handbags and baskets. Yama-budo handbags are the most popular products these days and run out very quickly even though the price are very expensive; for example, 30cm x 40cm x 14cm costs 180,000yen (=1,800USD)! 

To complete one basket is a year work and this whole process from finding materials to selling at the store is usually done by the one person. These process and techniques have been handed down from one generation to the next for hundred years. You can directly buy those products from makers at MishimaTraditional Craft Center where operated by the town of Mishima.

In the beginning of August, I visited Mishima Traditional Craft Center to look for Yama-budo handbags but as a result of Aizu Craft Fair was held in June, most of Basketry products run out and couldn't find much.

■Showa Ramie

Karamushi Kogei Hakubutsukan(Museum of Ramie)

Karamushi(Ramie)-ori is the weave cloth made by the material called Choma (type of Urtica). Now, Showa village is the only place producing Karamushi in Japan other than Okinawa. To complete Karamushi-ori takes more than 10 steps must work together with particular seasons of the year. It's a lot of work but the during the winter, Showa village is well known for heavy snowfall area needed produce some products that is easy to exchange for cash. So since 600 years ago, the people in Showa developed the Karamushi-ori for their lives.

At the Museum of Ramie and Karamushiori no sato, you will be able to see various Karamushi products and able to buy them.

Lily at Showa 

Karamushi-ori is the part of their lives for the people in Showa village and still try to make better Karamushi weaving products with passions.

Endoji Fukuman Kokuzoson

On a way back to from Showa Village, I stopped by the Yanaizu village where the temple called Enzo-ji Fukuman Kokuzoson. This temple was built almost 1,300 years ago and well known as the god of Tigar and Ox of Oriental Zodiac. 

OX

TIGAR

View from temple

Temple is located on top of the cliff and has very beautiful view of Tadami River which run through the village. Yanaizu is such a small village has beautiful nature and people, probably one of the best place to know the Japanese country living. 

Aizu & Iwaki / Fukushima

Tatsuzawa Fudo-daki at Inawashiro

As you know, Fukushima is still in a process of recovering from huge disaster of Tunami and Nuclear accident. It seems Fukushima's recovering process has been put behind because of the government and Tokyo Electric Power Co. still think that SEP!  I was born in Fukushima and my parents, relatives and friends are still live in there. It's been a long time since people in Fukushima start not expecting anything to the government. On the other hand, the people in Japan start to realize unless they have to do something about Fukushima, miracles won't happen and Fukushima will be a dark chapter in Japanese history. Well, they recognized that one of the best way of helping is to visit and to spend money, and vitalize the economy in Fukushima.


Let's me introduce some of the sightseeing spots in Fukushima and what is happening.
In the middle of June, me and two other friends from Tokyo visited Fukushima. Taking bullet train from Tokyo station is the fastest way and takes only 1 hour and 10 min. Railway transportation developed so well in Japan but the fare is very expensive. One way trip from Tokyo to Koriyama costs about 8,000JPY, 16,000JPY for the round trip to, so I suggest to buy a Japan Rail Pass costs only 28,000JPY for 7days and pretty much able to use any JR trains over the Japan.


First, we visited Hisanohama-area in Iwaki.  Iwaki is located in the SouthEast side of Fukushima and about 30km away from Fukushima nuclear plants. This area had hit by Tsunami and the people and houses were damaged heavily. But now, we saw signs of recovery everywhere such as Iwaki lalamew where landmark shop of Iwaki area was crowded heavily by the number of tourist. Even Iwaki area is close from nuclear plants, radiation level is very low compared with other Fukushima's major city like Koriyama and Fukushima, and that might contribute to the reason for tourists to visit and support Iwaki area.

Hongo-Ware

Next day, we went to Aizu Hongo and Inawashiro area where located South side of Fukushima.Aizu Hongo is famous for Hong-ware originated making tiles to a roof of Aizuwakamatsu castle. In Hongo, porcelain and pottery are being made. Being produced both at same area is very rare in Japan. Also, using various glaze allows for makers to express their creativity over wares. 

Bandai Moutain

Aizu area is surrounded by the beautiful nature such as Inawashiro-lake and Bandai-mountains and those are rich in natural resources. The Onsen is certainly the one of them. 

Manyo-Tei

Dinner Appetizers

After we left Aizu, we headed to Inawashiro and we stayed over the night at Manyo-Tei at Nakanosawa onse. I work for Travel agency and I stayed many hotels and Japanese style Ryokan all over Japan, but let me tell you this Manyo-Tei is one of the best Japanese style Ryokan I've ever stayed. Food was awesome and Onsen located in the middle of the forests made us super relax., and moreover, atmosphere was very nice. According to Manyo-Tei's blog, radiation level is very low which pretty much same level as Tokyo. In fact, Inawashiro has been housing for evacuees from Futaba area where restricted due to the nuclear accident.

Tatsuzawafudo-daki

Next day, we visited to Tatsuzawa Fudo-daki where located 5km away from Manyo-Tei. This beautiful waterfall is used for film shooting quite often, but not many people know where to exist since this location is difficult to found and hard to reach. But it's worth to visit.

Tenmori Soba 1,370JPY

Ohori

Inawashiro is very famous area of production of Soba. Usually Soba noodle and Tempura is a set menu. We went to the Soba restaurant call Ohori and ate Tenmori-Soba. Soba noodle was very delicious and wild vegetable Tempura was very fresh.

Goshikinuma Lake

After the lunch, we headed to Goshikinuma Lake originated volcanic eruption of Bandai Mountain at 1888. Due to the quality of volcanic water, the lake surface seems to has five different colors , and that how it came to be the lake's name.(Gishiki=five)  There are several trekking courses around the lake allows to enjoy and feel the part of Bandai Asahi National Park that is the third biggest National Park of Japan.

Morohashi Museum of Modern Art

Morohashi Museum of Modern Art located a few minutes away from Goshikinuma Lake has one of the foremost Salvador Dali collections around the world.

Matsumoto Craft Fair / Nagano Matsumoto

Matsumoto craft fair is one of the biggest outdoor craft fair held in Japan every year on the last weekend in May.  This is my first time visiting the fair and Matsumoto city.  


In the early morning of 27th of May,  I took JR Super-Azusa from Shinjyuku-station and headed to Matsumoto.  It took almost 2.5 hours from Shinjyuku-station, but this is the fastest way to get to Matsumoto.  Taking Expressway bus from Shinjyuku-station was alternative option, it's cheaper but takes more time.  I found out later on buying Super-Azusa ticket at ticket outlet shop was much more cheaper than buying ticket at JR station, almost 2,000 yen cheaper.

About 280 craftsmen gathered from all over Japan and about 72,000 people enjoyed for this two days fair.  All the booth were full of unique crafts which handmaded by Japanese young crafts artists.  Matsumoto Crafts fair was held at Agatano-Mori Park.  About 20 min from Mataumoto Station by walking, and also for 100-yen there was shuttle bus from Matsumto Station to Agatano-Mori Park every 5 min. To prevent illegal parking and stand in the position of  preventing global warming, this fair strongly suggested use public transportation.

Let's me introduce several craftsmen that I though very interesting.

■KOBAYASHI/KATSUHISA （小林克久）

Place: Okayama

Category: Woodwork, Urushi

Wooden bowl roughly hand carved and put Japanese lacquer called Urushi on top. To increase in strength, add Jino-ko (powder of wood coal、stone) in Urushi and coats inside of the bowl. The reflection of light shows different faces in this bowl. 

■OOSAKO/YUKI (大迫友紀)

Place: Ishikawa

Category: Glass products

She express sensitiveness through her various type of glass products. Those frosted glasses lead us into the nostalgic memories of our past.  

■SEO/MAKOTO (瀬尾誠)

Place: Nagano

Category: Urushi

I was very impressed by his work that changed my concept of Urushi.  Urushi is generally used for lacquer ware such as dishes and soup bowls. Those lacquer wares are usually coated clean and sharp paint, but Mr. Seo uses Urshi for createing unique shapes and adding depth for his works. He is creating Art by Urushi.

                                                     

After Matsumoto Craft Fair, I visited Matsumoto Castle. Matsumoto Castle, sometime called 'Crow Castle' is one of four castles designated as National Treasures of Japan, and also the oldest castle  donjon remaining in Japan. It takes about 20min by walking or 10min by bus from Matsumoto station. On the sidewalk, ancient landscape of the town still remain, so I suggest by walking.

 

Especially street called ''Nakamachi-Dori' has many galleries which sell different types of Japanese traditional handcrafts such as Urushi, Porcelain, Textile, Woodwork, Glass and so on.

Kuniyoshi Utagawa / Ukiyoe

             

I went to Kuniyoshi Utadaga's Exhibition at Mori Arts Center Gallery located inside of Roppongi Hills. Among all printings at the exhibition, my favorite was The Monsters' Chusingura. Chushingura is the Japanese famous true story happened in Edo-piriod, and was based on Samurai's loyalty that touches many Japanese hearts. A monster stands at the center performs Chushingura as Kabuki actors that is because during a certain period of time Tokugawa government prohibited to show Kabuki actors and women on Ukiyoe prints, so Kuniyoshi started to use animals to perform their roles instead of Kabuki actors.

Kuniyoshi's prints are based on superb technique, creative design, bizarre idea and remarkable imagination. His works don't look old at all, and seems still well accepted to the design world today.

   

For example, this one looks very alike the album jacket of King Crimson's "In the court of the Crimson King".

As you can see, Japanese Manga has been made a big influences from Ukiyoe. Ukiyoe, woodblock print, was originally used for book illustration such has similar aspect as Manga and allows the production for multiple copies of works. Ukiyoe's subjects are usually stories common among the people and things around the people such as animals and human itself. Ukiyoe has different aspect from "Art" in general, but that tradition is handed down to Manga and still preserved as visual culture which familiar to the Japanese people.

■Kuniyoshi Utagawa

The artist who was to be known to history as Kuniyoshi Utagawa was born in Edo(Tokyo) in 1797. He was the son of a silk dyer named Yanagiya Kichiemon and was given the name Yoshizaburo at birth. At the age of 14, Yoshizaburo joined the Utagawa School of ukiyoe artists, then headed by Utagawa Toyokuni I. Toyokuni Igave Yoshisaburo the name Utagawa Kuniyoshi; "Kuniyoshi" being a combination of the names "Toyokuni" and "Yoshisaburo".

In 1814, Kuniyoshi ended his apprenticeship and set out as an independent artist. He initially produced actor prints in the style of his teacher, which gained him little recognition. Kuniyoshi achieved a commercial and artistic breakthrough in 1827 with the first six designs of the series, The 108 Heroes of the Suikoden. The series was bases upon a 14th century Chinese novel about the adventures of a band of 108 honorable bandits and rebels.

Like his teacher, Kuniyoshi had many students including his own daughters. Kuniyoshi had a special fondness for cats, which overran his studio and are portrayed in many of his prints.

Although Kuniyoshi is now universally known as Utagawa Kuniyoshi, he also used the names Ichiyusai Kuniyoshi, Cho-o-ro Kuniyoshi, Igusa Kuniyoshi, Ichi Kuniyoshi and Saihosa Kuniyoshi. He died from complications of a stroke on April 14, 1861.
(From Kuniyoshi Project)

Akiyoshido & Hagi / YAMAGUCHI

Date:        4-6 Aug 2011
Stay:        4 Aug - 1NT  Plaza Hotel KOTOBUKI at Yuda Onsen
                5 Aug - 1NT  Hagi-Honjin at Hagi
Access:   JR Sainin Honsen from Matsue station to Masuda station.
               From Masuda, I rented a car to travel over Yamaguchi prefecture.

I believe, JR Sainin Line provides one of the best coastal landscape among all JR lines in Japan. It took about 3 hours from Matsue to Masuda station and fare was about 3,000yen. (If you use Limited express, time will be an hour shorter but fare will be additional 2,500yen.)

From Masuda station, I used a rental car to visit sightseeing spots in Yamaguchi. Japanese local region like Yamaguchi doesn't have effective transportation system like Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto, so I recommend to use rental car for visiting sightseeing spots efficiently.

Pictures on top is Oumi-Jima. It's a small island located North side of Nagato city and designated as a Japanese national monument. It has various small island and beautiful coastal lines. I saw many divers enjoying their diving.

This night I stayed Yuda-Onsen which located 20min away from Yamaguchi station famous hotspring in Yamaguchi.

Next day, I visited Akiyoshido, is the largest limestone cavern in Japan. It took only 30min from Yuda-Onsen to Akiyoshido entrance. Akiyoshido is also designated as a Japanese national special monument, and located under the Akiyoshidai Plateau.

Inside of cave, temperature consistently stays 17℃ all season. Amazing to see each drop create all those impressive figures over million years.

On a same day, I headed to Hagi also known by the name of Choshu area. Choshu has produced many active Samurai who contributed Meiji Restoration. Hagi is very quiet and has traces of Edo-period. I visited The Hagi Museum, Hagi porcelain museum, Senryuzan Hagiyaki pottery and Shokason-jyuku and all located within 5km area, so easy to access each sightseeing spots.

Last day, I stayed over night at Hagi-Honjin Japanese Hot Spring Inn with very reasonable price like 6,000yen without meal. Room was located old side of their building, but enough space for myself and since no serving lady like other expensive Onsen Ryokan, it was very comfortable and  was able to enjoy the time by myself.

Izumo Taisha & Matsue / SHIMANE

Date:          3 Aug 2011
Stay:          Matsue New Urban Hotel

　　　           40-1, NISHICHA-MACHI, MATSUE-SHI, SHIMANE 

                  TEL: 852-23-0003

Access:      JR Sunrise Express(sleeper train) from Tokyo Station to Izumo.  
                  Use Ichibata Densya(one-day free pass) from Izumo to Izumo-Taisha and Izumo-   
                  taisha to Matsue.   

Sunrise Express is Japanese night train departs from Tokyo station to Izumo sation.  Japanese night train is quite expensive and many uses for special occasions like a anniversary and long vacation. One of the hard tickets to get. 

I booked B single compartment. All you can get are see in pictures below. Don't expect much, but bring six-pack and snacks will do. It takes 12hours from Tokyo to Izumo. Try to book left side upper compartment from Tokyo which runs pacific ocean side on Tokaido line. 


                       

This is Izumo-station. Izumo-station is not the final destination. Izumo-Taisha is. Two way to go to Izumo-Taisha from Izumo-station, one is using local bus, and other is using Ichibata-Densya. Both starts from Izumo-station. 

I got Izumo-Taisha with Ichibata-Densya, using Ichibata-Densya one day free-pass. Since my final destination was Matsue, this pass was very reasonable for me to enjoy Izumo-Matsue area.

              

Izumo Taisha is Japan's oldest shrine and considered second important shrine after Ise Jingu, and also known for holy place somebody who is looking for love and happiness in marriage. You see many singles pray desperate for hope. (I was one of them!)

This straw object is ritual article for Shinto called Shime-Nawa. Some people believe once you successfully stick coin into this Shime-nawa, all the wishs will come true.

Ichibata Izumo-Taisha station.
Very compact but nice atmosphere.