Yuki-Tsumugi is the hand weaved silk fabric mainly designed for Kimono. City of Yuki and Oyama, located 80km away from Tokyo is the main region where Yuki-Tsumugi is produced. Recently, Yuki-Tsumugi has been named UNESCO's Cultural Heritage of Humanity, and people relating industry are trying to use this oppirtunity to catch people's attention about Yuki-Tsumugi .
All the work is done by hand, from spinning yarn by floss silk to the weaving. It takes a lot of time and efforts to complete one Kimono fabric caused as the result of high price even though Yuki-Tsumugi is not considered as a formal wear, not suitable for ceremonial occasions like a wedding.
Honba Yuki-Tsumugi which is concedered as qualified Yuki-Tsumugi has to pass 15 examinations and use three unique techniques: floss silk spun by hand into threads called Te-Tsumugi, twined threads preventing from dyeing to create pattern called Kasuri-kukuri then ground loom called Jibata for weaveing . Only passing all these examinations and using three techniques are considered as a fomer Yuki-Tsumugi and able to obtain a certification.
■Te-tsumugi
Floss silk spun by hand without twist are used as threads for Yuki-Tsumugi. Twisting gives durability and reinforcement into threads ususlly, but in Yuki-Tsumugi, non-twisting threads spun by hand are used. And that is why Yuki-Tsumugi is light and warm to wear. Also non-twiested threads give one of the unique elements of Yuki-Tsumugi such as distinctive texture with fluffy surface. This surface works good for prevent water, so it's said that Yuki-Tsumugi can be wore under the rain and snow without worrying about absorption. In Yuki-Tsumugi, wrap threads is thicker than weft, almost twice as thick as weft. Since threads are not twisted, in a process of weaving, warp threadsd are easily to cut off. Condition of these non-twisted thread called "Te-tsumugi threads" can be changed depending on the weather and humidity of the day so it takes some time to get used to handle it. Starch and chemical glew are applied to prevent threads from get fluffy and split up as needed.
■Kasuri-kukuri
Based on the Kimono design, spots where do not want to be dyed are tied up by cotton yarn to prevent permeation during the dyeing process. Depend on the design and number of colors to be used, this process are repeated over and over. And those binding spots end up as much as 80,000 when it comes to create the highest quality of Yuki-Tsumugi.
■Weaving
"Jibata" is the type of loom used in Yuki-Tsumugi. It has backstrap, loops it around the back and adjusts the tention of warp threads on the loom. Yuki-Tsumugi is a plain weave has only upper and lower threads and those are switched by the heddle called "Kakeito-kake". The heddle moves up and down by pulling the string connected from heddle to treadle by a leg. More you stretch warp threads taut by pulling with back and hitting woof threads by shuttle, denser you get on fabric. It's said that density directly resulting in the quality of fabric such as durability and warmth. Yuki-Tsumugi has enough durability to wear three generations and increase its luster while passing down the generation after generation.
